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Fashion, Society, and the First World War: International Perspectives
List of illustrations (x) | Acknowledgments (xiii) | A note on translations (xv) | Timeline (xvi) | Introduction - Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian (1) Part One - The reconfiguration of the international couture industry: 1. Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914–17 - Mary Lynn Stewart (17) | 2. Boué Sœurs: “Compelled by the War” - Waleria Dorogova (29) | 3. “Gladdening the hearts of warriors”: The relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in the First World War - Georgina Ripley (46) | 4. Die Kriegskrinoline: A feminine fashion between past and future - Birgit Haase (59) | 5. Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture - Nele Bernheim (72) Part Two - The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries: 6. Dressed to quill: The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris - Emily Brayshaw (91) | 7. Between fashion and folk: Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War - Sara Hume (108) | 8. The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War - Marguerite Coppens (122) | 9. Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands: A neutral country during the First World War - Marta Kargól (134) | 10. Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti - Margherita Rosina (151) Part Three - Problematic uniforms: Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks: 11. “Breeched, booted, and cropped”: A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917–19 - Amy de la Haye (165) | 12. The French home front in 1914–18: An investigation into female workwear - Jérémie Brucker (182) | 13. Rushing to suit up: French aviation’s adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914–16 - Guillaume de Syon (197) | 14. The spoils of war: Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France - Manuel Charpy (208) Part Four - Fashion in print: Questions of national fashion and gender: 15. The gentleman turned “enemy”: Men’s fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914–18 - Zsolt Mészáros (231) | 16. The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war - Burcu Dogramaci (246) | 17. The Italian fashion magazine Margherita: The war, women, and the call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914–18 - Enrica Morini (260) | 18. Le Flambeau’s fashion discourse during the First World War: Towards a retrograde femininity? - Nigel Lezama (272) | 19. Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch Magazine, 1915 - Andrea Kollnitz (288) Notes on contributors (309) | Index (315)
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